Gardens have never been high on my priority list...a childhood being dragged around a garden centre by my mother looking for plants does this to you. However, on a trip to Gwangju I found a Joseon style garden that had the rare opportunity of grabbing my attention completely and giving me a true glimpse of oriental philosophy, ideology and lifestyle...
Don't get me wrong, I would lie if I was to say I had never experienced the strong confuscian elements displayed in other historic sites in Korea, but as a foreigner, I found soswaeson offered me that chance to truly understand it.
For those of you keen on history and background information (not so keen on flora and fauna like myself!) Soswaewon was a garden constructed in the middle of the Joseon dynasty period (the last dynasty in Korea) by a guy called Yang San-bo in the late 1520s, and renovated in the 1700s by his descendants. Unlike Yang San-bo's personal history which included him being exiled and then killed in a political purge, Soswaewon is a truly beautiful place and one that is far from the concrete blocks of Seoul.
For those of you who are tourists seeking a true oriental experience, Soswaeson is a place to come, even if it does feel like being in a movie. It is situated just outside Gwangju near the mountainside and requires a short walk up a fairly steep hill to reach it. However, before you have even reached the garden itself you are met with a 'House of flying daggers' style forest of bamboo which immediately helps to put you in a contemplative mood, forgetting the tiresome train journey and the stress of organising your day trip!! The beauty of the infinite green can't help but fill you with calm! Even for a worried, anxious person like myself!
There are three pavillions within the garden itself, which were originally used for the purpose of entertaining guests, study, and simply contemplation. Activities which were highly important to the yangban (noblemen) of the time. Sitting on the wooden platforms looking out over the streams and autumnal trees it is impossible not to be envious of them. The structure of the garden and the ideas behind it were very fascinating also, fluently explained to me by Mr Park, a Gwangju local and a guide who admitted to me of frequently visiting the site. I know if I was in his position, retired, and considering my place in the world, it would definitely be my first port of call if I needed to think!!
The garden's position does everything it can to help the viewer feel consumed in nature. The Joseon way of building the pavillions on a slope, complementing the natural layout helped to add to this. The various walls, bridges and paths were all built around the flowing streams, the trees and any other natural phenomenon. Mr Park also helped to explain to me the Joseon idea of nature and how the garden was neither inside or outside, supporting the viewer that human living should be in harmony with nature, and that outside or inside did not exist. According to Mr Park walls were built not simply to keep things out but to help obscure your view, and focus your mind on the beauty of the garden, and allow you to focus. I tell you, these kind of garden's would definitely help my revision!!!!
In conclusion, I had a thoroughly good time in Soswaewon, and would definitely recommend it to anyone seeking contemplation while in Korea. Although it may not appeal to everyone and be on the top of everyone's list while visiting Gwangju, just take half an hour out of your day to visit this sight and I can guarantee you will feel a little bit lighter in spirit even if it's for only a moment... :)
